Naturally Tan Page 14
Why do we call them the heroes? Because these are people who wake up in the morning and decide to tackle the day. We can be our own everyday heroes. Just going out there and doing all you can do for those around you is a heroic act, in our opinion. They’re showing up for their families or their wives or partners or whatever, and we don’t want to belittle them by calling them clients when they are so much more than that. Everyday heroes.
About two weeks before we meet the hero, we receive a dossier about them, as well as a three-minute video from their audition tape. It’s usually their nominator saying, “This is why this person needs help.” They’ll talk about the fashion, grooming, interiors, food, and cultural aspects of their lives. The dossier also has information on what they like, as well as what they absolutely don’t like, so I can plan in advance what store I’m going to take them to. I’d love to live in a world where I can meet them and say, “I’d love to take you to wherever,” but there’s a lot of legal and logistical stuff that goes into booking a store, so we need to come up with a plan about which store I’ll take them to.
Season 1, episode 1 (with Tom Jackson) was not meant to be our first episode, it was meant to be our little tester episode, because we were still finding our feet. It was to be an episode we could hopefully use somewhere in the season, but not the opening episode of our show. It was all of our first times on camera together, and for me, the scene where I meet Tom Jackson was the first time I had been on camera, ever.
Let me tell you, this is a shocking, shocking experience. Especially for someone who used to be uncomfortable taking a simple darn picture.
Based on the measurements in Tom’s dossier, it seemed like he should be taken to a big-and-tall store. This was not the case. Tom is neither big nor tall; he is average size and average height. But Tom didn’t know how to measure himself, so I was going with what info was given.
People who know the show will remember that we meet him in a diner with all the ROMEOs (Retired Older Men Eat Out), where they meet every Tuesday. What you don’t see in this scene is that immediately after I say hi, I turn around to the producers and say, “He’s neither big nor fucking tall. What can we do?” I’m standing there thinking, we planned a whole day at a big-and-tall store for tomorrow and I’m about to make my first major mistake and it’s only my first week on camera.
I cannot take him to another store, because big corporate stores need at least two weeks’ notice to get the clearances we need for filming. So instead, I take him to a vintage shop where I pick out a hat. Because that is my only option. To this day, I cannot watch that episode again, because it gives me the worst flashbacks. I’m immediately transported back to having that feeling of, “I’m going to get railed for this.”
Here’s the thing. What you guys don’t see is the behind-the-scenes of the planning and the team it takes to make a scene work. So, when something seems slightly off in a closet or shopping scene, it’s something that we’ve desperately tried to make work but have stumbled, and the person on the receiving end of the criticism is whoever is the face of the scene. Me. That was a really tough pill to swallow.
If something doesn’t fit quite right, it’s because that was the closest size we could get to the hero’s size in the amount of time we had. Or the tailor wasn’t able to hem all the jeans in the closet in time before the end of the scene, and the hero just so happened to choose the only pair of jeans that weren’t altered to wear for his big reveal. Or we have an agreement with a store for that episode, so I can’t put the hero in the outfit I ideally want to put them in, as I can only use the brand’s specific options available to me. Or that’s literally the best that the store has to offer, and I have to use a local store for the scene. Can you see how this can get really worrisome?
Every time something like this happens, I feel physically sick and pray that I don’t get ripped apart online. It’s so much more than just picking out an outfit that I love and then having the hero wear it. With my category, there are so many variables to consider that the audience never gets to see. Every hero is a different height and body shape. Every brand has its own version of sizing. Every retailer we work with has an agreement about what items they’re willing to give us and what they’re not. Maybe one day I’ll get to do a “behind the scenes of Queer Eye” special?
The good news is, since Tom, I’ve never made that mistake again. The original dossier was pretty standard, but after that first episode, the dossier got far more comprehensive. I can’t assume that a man who desperately needs help knows how to properly measure himself or what to ask for. Now we ask many more questions, including what colours they like.
I want to make sure each and every thing in that closet is right for my hero. But for me, the image is secondary, because the most important thing is their emotional transformation. The wardrobe is integral to everything I’m doing on the show. The emotional journey falls by the wayside if I can’t do my job.
As for my own wardrobe on the show, for seasons 1 and 2, I was the only cast member who shopped for his own wardrobe. I’m given a budget, and I can buy my own clothes for the show. The other boys get options pulled for them by a stylist, and then they work with the stylist to put looks together. Do I get involved with the other boys’ styling? It’s definitely not my job, but I sometimes cannot resist. Sometimes Bobby or Antoni will ask what I think, and I’m happy to weigh in. Sometimes I give my very much unsolicited opinion. There were a couple of times during the first two seasons where I look back and wish I had said something, but I didn’t. Will I ever tell anyone what these looks are? Absolutely not. I wouldn’t do that to my boys.
While filming the third season, my personal styling choices came into question from the higher-ups. On episode 1, I wore a sweat suit, and in my opinion, it was fucking incredible. It was a grey oversized sweatshirt, which I belted and paired with grey sweat shorts. I’ve never felt so hot. Temperature and attitude.
The following week, I wore another sweatshirt, and it was called into question. The higher-ups were concerned that I looked too “casual” and “out there” and that I couldn’t encourage the heroes to make an effort if all I was wearing was a sweat suit. It was an awkward conversation that lasted a few days. I explained to them that in fashion, you must first learn the rules, but once you do—once you understand proportion and how to style things—you can start to break them a bit. These looks weren’t like I’d just rolled out of bed in my sweats. It was a very thought-out, intentional style moment.
“Maybe you could wear skinny jeans and button-ups again,” someone suggested. “Like you did last year.” Was I frustrated by this comment? I sure was. I don’t love being told that what I’m wearing isn’t appropriate when my wardrobe is the one thing I give a disproportionate amount of consideration. I don’t want to be seen as a one-trick pony. I want to show range, and now I feel empowered to do so. I want to be young and play with style for as long as I possibly can. I’m not the kind of guy who’s going to wear a suit every day, because that’s not the only appropriate clothing option for men of a certain age. By that token, I’m also not going to wear a sweat suit every day, but I love having the freedom to toggle back and forth, depending on what I want to project to the world that day.
I talk about sweats a lot on the show, as in, “Don’t live in your sweatpants.” But if sweatpants are intentional and well proportioned and part of an overall look, I am a fan of that. I love the direction that fashion and style are going, for both men and women, in terms of being more casual.
Now, don’t get me wrong—I do love a floral shirt, and I love a well-fitting suit. When you’re getting dressed, sometimes I think it’s nice to do something that isn’t plain. Whenever you wear a printed shirt, you look like you put more style into your look. It was a considered style choice. Even though they’re a trend right now, I don’t think printed shirts will ever go out of style.
Polka dots and stripes will always help you perk up a look, and I do think we’ve hit a poin
t where florals will be treated the same way. Perhaps a bold-statement floral isn’t for everyone, but everyone can wear some version of it. Floral prints have been around since fashion began. When did it start, and when will it end? Who knows, but while it’s here and a thing, I’m not hating on it.
There is no wrong time to wear a printed shirt, except maybe at a funeral—a floral shirt is probably too jazzy for a funeral. For any other occasion, there are ways to tone it down. The easiest way is to layer something else with it, like when you wear a printed shirt underneath a suit. It gives you a pop of something interesting, but you’re only showing a smaller portion of it. It also takes a suit from being super corporate to being a style moment.
There was a time working on the show when I was worried my fashion/style scenes wouldn’t be impactful. The shows are filmed out of order, so it’s hard to get a sense for how it will all come together. The producers said, “We need print; we need colour,” and I delivered because I agreed it would translate well on camera and in real life. Then they said, “Let’s put them in a bright suit,” and I put my foot down. Let’s not get carried away. Because if people are truly looking to our little show for takeaway information, I want to make sure that what I’m putting the heroes in is real and can be useful to them. For me, this isn’t just a TV show. It’s a real experience, and I want it to feel that way for the audience, too. The pressure is on, and I want to make sure every single thing is right.
Is it sometimes slightly more outlandish because it’s TV? Yes, but it’s never something I wouldn’t personally wear. It feels amazing to know that people have tried to imitate looks from the show, whether they’re looks of mine or looks I’ve put my heroes in. People tag me on social media multiple times a day, showing their versions of my styling, and it makes me smile every damn time. I never would have thought that a decision I made would connect with someone from a far-off land, so much so that they’d post about it. I’m awed and humbled by it.
It probably (definitely) sounds pompous to say this, but after the first season aired, major fast-fashion retailers were selling their version of the floral shirt, and when I’d go shopping, it would look like they’d created a full-on Tan France section of the stores. Racks and racks of floral print shirts and mannequins styled the way I’d styled myself on the show. It was everywhere. Could my style impact the landscape of apparel retail? Gosh, I hope so.
After season 1, my biggest fear was that floral shirts were the only fashion talking point for me with the press and viewer—that nothing I could do would top it.
Then came the French tuck.
Nothing I’ve done in my adult life has ever caught fire like this. It is the most amazing feeling to be anywhere in the world—Australia, Asia, Europe, anywhere—and have people come up to me asking, “Am I French tucking? Am I doing it right?” At one point, literally hundreds of people were tagging me every day, saying, “I’m French tucking!” I didn’t think I could quantify it, but now I can. I hope it never gets old.
There is a lot of pressure around being the fashion guy. People definitely expect me to look a certain way all the time. I used to be able to go to the store with whatever I had on around the house, which—in fairness—usually is something clean, ironed, and well thought-out. But now, I have to dress up for anywhere I go. Coming up with a new look every day is the most pressure. Also, that shit’s expensive, you guys.
Being in this industry is tough to begin with, but as a person who has built my personality around my appearance, I’ve really set myself up. I know for the rest of my life, people will be like, “That’s the style guy?” and that’s a lot of pressure. People aren’t expecting Karamo’s house to look nice or even for him to dress a certain way. They just expect he’ll be able to listen and give solid advice.
You know that person who’s trapped back in high school because that’s when they were hot? I think that’s my greatest fear. I don’t want to get stuck in one trend or to be a slave to a certain moment in my life. Decades down the road, I don’t want people to ever say, “Oh, there’s Tan, French tucking his floral shirt.”
The question I’ve been asked many, many times over is: Was it called the French tuck to begin with, or is Tan just calling it that because his last name is France? The answer is, it was always called the French tuck, but my gosh, it’s a stroke of luck that my name is France and I’m known for the French tuck.
I’ve also used it for the last twelve years on almost every one of my outfits. I first saw it on the runways and thought it looked great, and I’ve loved the look ever since. It’s my finishing touch, like a woman who wears lipstick every day. The French tuck is my lipstick. I’ve been using it forever, and I’m not about to stop now.
Now that floral shirts and French tucks have become a thing, there are other things I wish would catch on.
One in particular has been embraced by women, but I’d love to see more men in high-waisted pants, whether trousers or jeans. You saw men in this style in the ’30s, ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s, and even some in the ’70s, but then it fell out of favour. It’s very flattering. (As compared to a mid-rise, or especially a low-rise, which I think is very unflattering on most people.) Calm down, dear; I’m not talking about pants all the way to your rib cage, but somewhere close to your navel. Decades ago, this was seen as a very masculine style, and I wish it could make its way back into the mainstream. I’m wearing this style more and more, to try to encourage men to embrace it as a go-to style, but I think I might be fighting an uphill battle. C’mon, you guys, get with it. You’ll be glad you did.
I love that people are taking information away from the show. We’re living in a different world than in 2003 when the first version of the show aired. I thought, Who would care about my styling suggestions on a TV show these days? It’s 2018; people have access to Google and to social media—they don’t look to TV for inspiration. It’s amazing how wrong I was.
I’m flattered that people are paying so much attention, but don’t limit yourself to a TV show. One question I get asked a lot is where I go for inspiration. Finding inspiration has never been easier.
Go to Instagram, Twitter, or Pinterest. Search for hashtags, like #mensstyle or #mensfashion. Also: blogs, blogs, blogs. Men’s and women’s style blogs are incredible resources. Browse around online until you find a lifestyle blogger who has a style similar to yours (or a style you want to emulate).
One reason I always refer people to blogs is because the posts are bloody linked. Men! Don’t wait until you get to the mall to go shopping. Use your resources. If you see a “click and buy” link on something you like, click it and buy it. Don’t wait to try to find it in a store. Let’s be stealthy about this, you guys. I promise you, this is the way forward. Technology doesn’t move backwards. It’s not like online shopping is going to get old and go away, so your only resources are malls again. That’s never going to happen. Get with the (software) program.
“But bloggers make money off my purchases,” some people balk. Yes, yes, they link to things so they earn a commission—good work; you caught them, Sherlock. The jig is up! Who cares if they earn a percentage? Let’s not pinch pennies here. It’s not like it’s costing you any extra, and you’re using them for their style advice. They’re providing a service, so why shouldn’t they get paid for it? As long as you end up with the items you like, just let them earn their darn fee, and let’s not be so bitter about these bloggers. They never suggested that they were linking items or promoting products as an act of charity. They have mouths to feed, too.
If you’re feeling real extra, and you want to step it up even more, follow the runways. You can see them all for free online, dating back like ten to fifteen years. That shit’s expensive, but it’ll give you inspiration for how to style things differently. I use the runway purely for styling inspo.
For women, Pinterest is mostly female driven and can be an incredible resource. However, you need to set your alarm; otherwise you can get lost in a black hole. I rem
ember once I got lost in a Pinterest hole for like two fucking days. I looked up at the end of one eight-hour workday and thought, Holy shit, I didn’t even answer an email all day. So maybe avoid that. Set your timer, avoid all the crafty shit—I may live in Utah, the home of crafty shit, but I am not a scrapbooker—and browse the inspiration for style, home, beauty, and food.
Men don’t talk about it enough, but women talk about their favourite stores. People surround themselves with people they like, so ask your most stylish friends for their opinions. It’s fine to ask someone where they like to shop or even to say, “Hey, I’m really struggling. What stores do you like? Can we go together?”
You’ve got the world at your fingertips! There is no excuse. Go out there and find your style.
TAN’S LIST OF THE BEST-DRESSED CELEBRITIES
When people say, “I don’t know where to start!” this is what I tell them. This is my actual answer—find a celebrity whose style you love and Google photos of them for reference. “But, Tan,” you might say, “these celebrities are dressing in fancy, fancy clothes, and I can’t afford them.” I get that, but if you go to the likes of Zara and H&M and Topshop, they’ll have knockoff versions of the same things at accessible price points. For almost any everyday look you admire, I promise you can find an accessible version.
When it comes to inspiration, here are some of the stars I look to again and again …
Victoria Beckham
She is my all-around number one. It’s crazy to me that now she is one of the best-dressed women on the planet, because back in her 1990s Spice Girls days, there was nothing posh about it; it was a little bit “scary” spice. The fashion press would never have described her as stylish or cool. But now she’s so chic, it’s almost regal. She’s incredible.